
Le Paradis, Toronto, ON
Review by Anne Garber
166 Bedford Road
Toronto, ON
416-921-0995
website
This local secret offers outstanding French bistro-style fare in Toronto’s centre. Recommended items include the melted Brie appetizer and herb-roasted chicken. The atmosphere is casual and the wine choices are unique. University types, writers, and actors from the surrounding neighbourhood come to this authentic French bistro-on-a-budget for the ambience and modestly priced wine list. Even my hard-to-please parents love this place!
La Paradis is a true hidden gem in Toronto. The service is very friendly, albeit a little slow on busy nights. Reservations are recommended (see below).
The atmosphere here contributes at least half of the experience: Opt for the room directly at the end of the restaurant, as opposed to the sunken room to the right (from where you enter). The far room more closely resembles a Left Bank bôite than any Toronto eatery that I have visited.
Steak and fries, the aforementioned crisp herb-roasted chicken, and exotic tajine de volaille (a Moroccan stew of chicken, prunes, olives, and a plethora of seasonings) get the creative juices flowing. Owner/Proprietor is David Currie; Chef de Cuisine is Craig Domville.
Don’t overlook the daily pris-fixe menu and be sure to check out the daily chalkboard specials, as you enter.
We visited for Mother’s Day (a hint: for special occasions, arrive when they open at 5:30 or risk disappointment — or a ridiculously long wait), and in our group of four (including TWO mothers), we tried the Provimi calf’s liver-bacon-and-onions, with demi-glace (superb), the Truite aux Amandes (Rainbow trout with almonds), and a mélange of shellfish, calamari and other seafood (the dish is called “Bourride à la Provençale”) — perfect for the non-meat-eater in our group; my daughter’s only “regret” — once she spied the sumptuous servings at the table next to us — was that she hadn’t ordered a regular entrée, as the side dishes were brilliant. I had a large scoop of wonderfully flavourful squash, a mound of whipped potatoes, and a hefty serving of greens.
For dessert, we four shared a trio of freshly house-made sorbets: pineapple; papaya and raspberry, positively radiant in their flavour.
The bill — for four hungry adults — came to a modest $85, including generous tip, beverages and usurious stipends for Messrs McGuinty and Martin (ie taxes).
Hours: Lunch, Tuesday to Friday, noon to 3:00 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday & Monday, 5:30 to 10:00 p.m.; Tuesday to Friday, 6:00 to 11:00 p.m.; and Saturday, 5:30 to 11:00 p.m.
Major credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended.
About the Author
Anne Garber is a seasoned international journalist whose focus includes consumer product reviews, challenges and issues, internet scam and problem-solving, book reviews, travel and food features. She is an expert product and recipe tester, and pulls no punches when it comes to differentiating between products and services that perform well (five stars) and those that don’t (bombs).She writes a weekly column in Canada for TV Week, and international columns online (evalu8.org, Travellady.com) and maintains a regular blog on consumer matters at http://www.annegarber.blogspot.com/. Anne welcomes polite feedback and interesting ideas for new reviews or articles at anne@evalu8.org. Anne divides her time between homes in Vancouver, Canada, Seattle, WA and Paris, France.
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